A few hours southwest of Chengdu, the roads climb towards Ya’an, where misty mountains, rushing rivers and endless tiers of emerald tea plantations create one of Sichuan’s most ruggedly beautiful landscapes.

When I say “I’m going to Yunnan”, even super well-travelled people look quizzical. “Where’s that?” they ask, and fair enough too. After all, when people think of China their minds instantly click to the Greatest Sino Hits… adorable pandas, the Great Wall, Terracotta Warriors, The Bund, the Summer Palace, Forbidden City and maybe even Disneyland in Shanghai. 

I’ve always been drawn to the places beyond big cities, and in China that means the ancient towns scattered across the countryside that sometimes require a little sleuthing to discover. In Sichuan’s basin and mountain valleys, old wooden houses, riverside teahouses, stone-paved lanes and delicious, rustic cooking define the vibe.